Engineered and Solid Flooring Installation Guide
Artisan Hardwood, Inc. offers a 25-year Limited Residential Warranty or a 5-Year Limited Commercial Warranty on the finishing and lifetime structural warranty of all floorboard products. Warranty coverage may be lost due to improper installation, poor jobsite conditions, or the use of improper materials or tools. PLEASE READ THIS INSTALLATION GUIDE CAREFULLY.
- Section 1 – Important Information Before You Begin
- Section 2 – Installation Guidelines
- Section 3 – Completing the Job – All Installations
Section 1 – Important Information Before You Begin
It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you read and understand this information completely prior to starting, since improper installation can void the warranties. Only a professional hardwood floor installer should perform the installation.
If at any time during the installation of this flooring you have a question or a concern, STOP and call your dealer! Verify that the color, gloss and distressing and T&G fit are acceptable prior to starting the installation. When nailing-down a floor, walk the floor after installing the first few rows (and after allowing the supplemental adhesive to cure) to make sure there is not an unacceptable level of noise. If there is an unacceptable level of noise it is likely caused by subfloor issues or an incorrect nailing pattern. These issues must be remedied prior to continuing the installation.
Artisan will only be responsible for obvious issues in flooring that has not been installed.
READ THIS CAREFULLY: The primary cause of problems with any hardwood floor is moisture, either too much or too little. It is the contractor’s / homeowner’s responsibility to ensure that the conditions prior to install, as well as for the life of the hardwood floor, meet certain criteria. The wood sub-floor to which you are nailing your hardwood floor must have a moisture content (MC) of 12% or less when measured with a properly calibrated pin-type moisture meter, and should be within 3% of the measured MC of the hardwood flooring prior to installation. The sub-floor must remain at 12% or less MC throughout the life of the hardwood floor. It is the contractor’s / homeowner’s responsibility to verify those measurements, and to ensure that the environment, including the crawl-space, is and will remain dry. Other factors which can affect the MC of the floor, and cause problems, are uncontrolled environmental relative humidity (RH). It is the homeowner’s responsibility to install, operate and monitor such systems as necessary to maintain a RH of between 35% and 55%, and a temperature range of between 60º and 80 º F at all times. Failure to ensure a maintain a dry sub-floor and/or crawl-space or failure to regulate environmental RH or temperature as required can lead to excessive cupping, splitting, checking and gapping. Such occurrences will not be covered as manufacturing defects by any Artisan warranty.
Prior to installation the Installer/Owner should perform a final inspection of the grade, manufacturing and factory finish of the purchased products. Materials installed with visible defects are not covered under warranty. Remember – Wood is a natural product that can vary in color, grain, and contains natural characteristics that varies from plank to plank and is to be expected. We do not warrant against these natural variations from plank to plank or variations from sample to plank. If you are not satisfied with the flooring prior to installation, simply return the cartons to your dealer for a full replacement. Accepting or rejecting the material must be done on full shipment of quantities only, not carton by carton or plank by plank. . The Installer must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with defects, whatever the cause. Beautiful hardwood floors are a product of nature and therefore not perfect. Our wood floors are manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type.
Artisan shall not accept responsibility for visible defects in flooring that has already been installed. Before installing Artisan floors, the Installer and Owner should ascertain that the jobsite and sub floor meet all necessary requirements of installation as outlined in these instructions. The Artisan Limited Warranties do not cover flooring failures resulting from poor jobsite and/or sub floor conditions.
Jobsite Conditions and Acclimation– All Installations
A. General Conditions
It is the installer/ Owners’ responsibility to ensure that the jobsite conditions and jobsite subfloor are environmentally and structurally acceptable prior to the installation of any hardwood flooring. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for failures or deficiencies of hardwood flooring resulting from or related to sub-floor, subsurface, or job-site environmental conditions. All substrates must be clean, flat, dry, and structurally sound.
- Subfloors must be clean and free of dirt, curing compounds, sealers, drywall mud, paint, wax, grease, urethane, or other materials that may affect the integrity of the flooring material or adhesives used to install the flooring.
- All subfloors and subfloor systems must be structurally sound and must be installed following their manufacturer’s recommendations. Local building codes may only establish minimum requirements of the flooring system and may not provide adequate rigidity and support for proper installation and performance of a hardwood floor. Whenever possible install the planks perpendicular to the floor joists for maximum stability. Our warranties DO NOT cover any problems caused by inadequate substructures or improper installation of said substructures.
- Test subfloor moisture content and choose adhesive system according to the Glue-Down Installations section. Record the results of the test with permanent marker on the subfloor such that it can be found later.
- A “DRY” SLAB, AS DEFINED BY THESE TESTS CAN BE WET AT OTHER TIME OF THE YEAR. THESE TESTS DO NOT GUARANTEE A DRY SLAB.
- Basements and crawl spaces must be dry. Use of a 6 mil black polyethylene is required to cover 100% of the crawl space earth. Crawl space clearance from ground to underside of joist to be no less than 18” and perimeter vent spacing should be equal to 1.5% of the total square footage of the crawl space area to provide cross ventilation. Where necessary, local regulations prevail.
- The subfloor must be flat, meeting a minimum of 1/8” within 10’.
- Repair all cracks in the subfloor greater than 1/8” before applying flooring adhesive.
- All “wet” work – i.e. – paint, drywall, concrete, masonry, plumbing must be complete and dry well in advance of delivery of hardwood flooring.
- Gutters and downspouts should be in place and the exterior grade complete to allow for proper drainage of water away from the building’s exterior perimeter.
- Flooring should not be exposed to extremes of humidity or moisture.
- Permanent HVAC should be on and operational a minimum of 7 days and maintained between 60º and 80º F and a relative humidity of 35%- 55% prior to delivery, during, and after installation of the flooring.
- If HVAC is not possible at time of installation the environmental conditions must be at or near normal living conditions between 60º and 80º F and at the average yearly relative humidity for the area.
It is the Installer’s/Owner’s responsibility to ensure that the conditions are acceptable prior to the installation of the hardwood floors. The manufacturer declines any and all problems with the hardwood flooring that are related to or attributed to improper jobsite conditions.
B. Recommended Subfloor Surfaces
Concrete subfloors: Newly poured concrete must be cured for a minimum of 42 days before installation. Concrete subfloors must meet the requirements for the adhesive or adhesive system selected.
Wood Subfloors – Preferred: ¾” CDX grade Plywood subfloor/ underlayment, 4’x8’ sheets or ¾” OSB subfloor/ underlayment grade, PS2 rated, sealed side down, with joist spacing of 19” on center or less.
Wood Subfloors – Minimum: 5/8” CDX Plywood subfloor/ underlayment, 4’x8’ sheets, maximum 16” on center joist construction. Follow panel manufacturer’s recommendations for spacing and fastening. Typical panel spacing and fastening for joist systems, 1/8” (3.2mm) around perimeter and fastened every 6” on bearing edges and every 12” along intermediate supports.
Installation of flooring should not be made over joists spacing greater than 19” on center or parallel to the joists unless the subfloor has been properly strengthened, applying a second layer of underlayment may be necessary to bring the overall subfloor thickness to 1-1/8” (minimum).
- Test the moisture content of the wood subfloor and wood flooring with a pin type moisture meter. Wood subfloors must not exceed 12% and the wood flooring should be within 3% of the wood subfloor.
- For existing wood floors install new flooring at right angles to the existing flooring.
- Do not glue, staple, or nail down hardwood flooring over particle board.
- Do not install over existing glue down hardwood floors.
C. Handling, Storage, and Acclimation
Please note that Engineered Floors are manufactured using an engineered construction that includes a tongue-and-groove jointed plywood substrate. Care should be taken when handling longer (5’+) planks so as not to stress this joint. Please avoid lifting longer planks from one end only – it is best to pick up planks from the middle. Engineered wood flooring should be stored in the same environment in which it is expected to perform. HVAC systems should be operating so that the flooring is being acclimated in normal living conditions (between 35%-55% relative humidity and between 60º and 80º F). Acclimate the product for a minimum of 72 (engineered) or 96 hours (solid) or as long as needed in order to meet the proper installation requirements. Opening of the cartons will help to better acclimate material. Material is acclimated once it has reached moisture equilibrium consistent with the temperature and relative humidity of the job site and normal living conditions. Do not deliver material in inclement weather. Always store material in a dry place.
Preparing For Installation – All Installations
STOP! All questions or concerns in regard to the grading or milling of this product are required to be resolved prior to installation. The manufacturer accepts no responsibility or liability for the cost of this product, replacement and/or labor when flooring containing grade, milling, distressing or finishing defects has been installed prior to resolutions. Installing this product assumes full acceptance of this flooring.
Per 3M: ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape Original Multi-Surface 2090 is not recommended for use on pre-finished flooring. The only adhesive tape which should be used with Artisan Flooring is ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape Delicate Surface 2080. Traditional “Blue Tape” contains chemical solvents that, over time, may penetrate and weaken the finish. DO NOT use “Blue Tape”. Even when using ScotchBlue™ Painter’s Tape Delicate Surface 2080, do not leave tape on flooring for longer than 3 days. When possible, apply tape to baseboards or walls rather than flooring.
Inspect the Flooring: Inspect material for color, finish, milling, and grade. Hold out pieces that may not be acceptable once installed. PLEASE NOTE: We do not accept responsibility for any costs incurred when plank(s) with visible defects have been permanently installed.
Undercut Door Casings: Undercut all door casings 1/16″ higher than the thickness of the flooring being installed. To do this, use a scrap piece of flooring as a guide. Lay it on the substrate and cut the casing with a handsaw or use a power jamb saw set at the correct height.
Blending of Cartons: To achieve a uniform appearance across the entire floor, we highly recommend that you open and work from several cartons at a time and dry-lay the flooring, mixing the planks from several cartons. This will allow you to blend the planks for maximum aesthetic appearance. Make certain the room is well lit to ensure color is consistent and that any visual defects can be seen and removed.
Match Transition Moldings: For best appearance, blend all transitions and moldings to planks that have similar color and graining. Set them aside for use as needed.
Layout of Flooring: “Racking the floor” is essential to achieve a random appearance. Start by either using random-length planks found in the carton or by cutting four or five planks in random lengths, differing by at least six inches. As you continue working across the floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum between end joints.
Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
Never waste materials; the end cuts from starter rows should be used at the opposite side of the room to complete rows or used to start the next row.
Expansion Space: Allow a minimum 1/2” (engineered floors) or ¾” (solid floors) expansion around all vertical obstructions. Large spans exceeding 20’ (6 m) in hardwood flooring width, in areas of high humidity, may require the addition of internal or field expansion. This can be accomplished by using spacers, such as small washers, every 10-20 rows, inserted above the tongue. Remove the spacers after several adjoining rows have been fastened. Do not leave spacers in for more than two hours.
Section 2 – Installation Guidelines
Only Artisan Engineered Flooring may be installed via glue-down installation.
(For installations over Radiant Heat systems, see also the section on Radiant Heat Installations.)
Adhesive and Moisture Barrier Systems from the following manufacturers are permitted for the full-spread glue-down installation of Artisan Floors:
Bostik, Sika, Mapei, Fortane
Follow the Adhesive Manufacturer’s Installation Instructions for the testing of subfloor moisture content. Choose an adhesive and (if necessary) moisture barrier system that is warranted by the adhesive manufacturer for installation under those circumstances. Artisan will not be responsible for problems that might arise due to moisture transference from a subfloor to the hardwood flooring.
Please note the following exceptions:
Adhesive Removal: Use the adhesive manufacturer’s recommended Adhesive Remover according to the instructions on the bottle.
In case of any other conflict between adhesive manufacturer instructions and Artisan Installation or Care and Maintenance Instructions, please contact your dealer for resolution.
Floating Floor Installation
All ½” and thicker Artisan Engineered floors may be floated. Artisan Solid floors may not be floated.
Before you begin using the following instructions, refer to the Pre-Installation Jobsite Conditions section above.
Additional tools & material needed:
Artisan Floating Floor Adhesive – Floating Floor underlayment – 6 Mil Polyethylene Sheeting
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Job Prep information above.
- 6 Mil Polyethylene not required over a vinyl, wood, or a wood product sub floor.
- 6 Mil Polyethylene required over concrete type subfloors – on grade or below grade. Do not install over carpet.
If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure to the sub floor. Do not install over perimeter glued vinyl. If installing over an existing wood floor, install the flooring at right angles to the wood floor. Secure creaking and loose floorboards with screws. Do not install over wood flooring glued to a concrete sub floor. ½” of expansion space required at all vertical surfaces.
- Remove all doors and shoe moldings. Undercut all door casings 1/16” higher than the thickness of the flooring and underlayment to be installed. Place a scrap piece of plank and a sheet of underlayment against the door casing to act as a guide and cut the door casing with a hand saw or power jamb saw set to the correct height.
- After determining the direction to run the planks, measure the width of the room (the dimension perpendicular to the direction of the flooring). The last row of the flooring should be no less than 1 ½” wide; if it is less, cut the width of the starter row to avoid a narrow last row.
- Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it’s most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from the wall, at each end, the overall width of the plank plus ½” for expansion. If the first row requires ripping then measure from the wall the width of the ripped board plus ½” for expansion.
- Snap a chalk line using a (brightly colored chalk) from these points.
- Install Underlayment: Unroll the 6 mil. Poly sheeting overlapping edges 4” and seal seams with clear plastic tape. Allow the poly to run 2” up the wall and trim back after installation of flooring. Install 1/8” foam underlayment.
NOTE: Use of a floating floor 2 in 1 underlayment may be used. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for application installing the 2 in 1 underlayment.
- Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge (starter board) inside the chalk line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks from shifting during installation. The straightedge could be a straight piece of lumber or piece of flooring. This is temporary and will be replaced as the floor is completed.
- Insert spacers at walls to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and the wall.
- Before starting to glue planks, dry lay the first two rows of flooring. Working from left to right, install planks so that the groove faces the straight edge (starter board). When reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. On the first 4 rows stagger end joints a minimum of 16” and then 8” thereafter.
- Use the remainder of the plank from the first row to start the second row. If the piece is less than 8” long, cut a new plank in half and use that piece to start the second row.
- Lay the remainder of the planks in the second row. Make sure that the rows are straight and no gapping exists on the sides or ends. Once you have dry laid the first two rows, remove all the planks in order. You are ready to begin.
- Begin gluing the boards; Run a continuous bead of adhesive along the groove of the short side (width) and the plank’s side groove (length). Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
- Install first row of planks with groove facing the straight edge. Work from left to right. Complete the first row. Make sure there are no gaps between the boards. Use a tapping block if need to close the boards together. Immediately wipe away any excessive adhesive with a clean, slightly dampened cloth.
CAUTION: Adhesive that is allowed to dry on the finish surface can be difficult to remove and may leave a haze.
- At the end wall use an end pry bar, if needed, to pull the ends of the planks tight.
- Continue to install the floor working left to right, repeating the process until the completion of the floor. Continue to use the spacers on all vertical surfaces to maintain the ½” expansion.
- The last row will most likely require cutting to width but it should be no less than 1 ½” wide. To do this, lay the plank face up on top of the last full row installed. Trace the wall contour on the last plank using a scrap piece of plank and a pencil.
- Install cut planks and pull into place with a pry bar. Install spacing wedges between planks and wall.
- Remove the straight edge (starter row) and install the last row using the pry bar. Allow floor to dry for a minimum of 12 hours before removing all spacing wedges and allowing foot traffic.
Additional tools and material needed:
Drill, Tapping Block, Compressor, Air Hose In-line Air Regulator, Pneumatic Nailer/Stapler
Liquid Nails Subfloor & Deck Construction Adhesive (Supplemental Adhesive) in 28oz tubes
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Jobsite Conditions section above.
IMPORTANT: Artisan will not be responsible for any problems caused by damp or humid crawlspaces or basements. It is the contractor’s responsibility to make certain crawlspaces are properly covered and ventilated.
Additionally, the nail-down installation will only be as good as the subfloor. If the subfloor is unsound or unlevel, this situation must be corrected prior to installation. Artisan will not be responsible for any problems due to an unlevel or unsound subfloor, especially squeaking and popping.
NOTE: Our products are not warranted against squeaking, popping or crackling when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods. Some squeaking, popping or crackling is normal and possible when using staple-down or nail-down installation methods. These symptoms may be aggravated in arid areas or during dry conditions. This is not a manufacturing defect and is therefore not covered under our warranties (see warranty brochure for complete warranty coverage). You can help reduce squeaking, popping, and crackling by being sure that the subfloor is structurally sound, does not have any loose decking or joists, and is swept clean prior to installation.
Setup and Use of Pneumatic Staplers and Nailers
You must make certain that your stapler or nailer is setting the fastener properly, not damaging the planks, and that you are using the correct nailing schedule. When used improperly, cleats can damage wood flooring. If the tool is not adjusted properly the cleats may not be positioned at the proper angle and cause blistering, peaking, squeaking, or crackling of the floor. Some models may require the use of an adapter to adjust for proper thickness. Test the tool on a piece of scrap material first – set the stapler/ nailer flush on the tongue side of the plank and install a cleat. Should the cleat penetrate too deeply reduce the air pressure; if the cleat is not deep enough then increase the air pressure using an in-line regulator. The crown of the cleat should sit flush within the nail pocket to prevent damage to the flooring and to reduce squeaking. The flooring manufacturer is not responsible for damage caused by the mechanical fasteners.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Only use manufacturer’s recommended cleats.
- For ¾” thick products the recommended length cleat is 1 ½” to 2”.
- For ½” products the recommended cleat length is 1-1/4”
Use a power nailer A200 (20 Gauge) with cleat is required, and make sure nailing is appropriate 4” to 6” each cleat. To avoid damage to the tongue (Over driven), be sure to adjust for proper pressure on the compressor. Read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for complete set-up and operation of equipment.
- After the subfloor has been properly cleaned and prepped cover the subfloor with 15lb. asphalt felt paper. This material will help to keep the floor clean and help to retard moisture from below (there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or nail-down applications). This step is omitted for floors 5” and wider, and is replaced by the Supplemental Adhesive as detailed under paragraph 6, following.
- Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it’s most likely to be straight and square with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the overall width of the plank (board width + tongue + the space needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion).
- Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
- Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into position with the tongue facing away from the starter wall (toward you). Drill pilot holes through the face of the plank every 6” (in the dark grain); approximately 1” from the back edge of the board and secure planks with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill with appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler from surface.
- Blind nail at a 45° angle through the tongue 1”-2” from the end joints and every 6” in between along the length of the starter boards (Predrill holes to make this easier). Depending on the width of the flooring it may be necessary to do this for the first few rows prior to using a pneumatic stapler/ nailer. NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
- Continue to install the flooring making sure to nail/staple 1”-2” from the ends and every 3” – 4” thereafter. Make certain the tool is adjusted properly to ensure that the fastener is at the proper angle and is flush within the nail pocket. As you continue working across the floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
For all nail-down installations we require the use of supplemental adhesive in the form of Liquid Nails Subfloor & Deck Construction Adhesive (Supplemental Adhesive), available at retail stores nation-wide.
This adhesive should be applied as follows:
A 3/16” bead should be applied in a serpentine pattern across the width of, and the entire length of the back of the flooring or on the subfloor, as shown. Make sure that the “peaks and valleys” of the serpentine pattern are not more than 1” from the board edge and the spacing of the “peaks” is not more than 10”.
- If needed use a tapping block to help engage the boards together until the tongue-and-groove is flush and tight and no gaps are present between adjacent planks.
NOTE: Never use a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to engage the tongue-and groove. This can damage the flooring and/or finish.
- As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width of the last row – be sure to allow for the expansion along the end wall. Once the final cuts are made set planks into place.
- The last few rows will need to be fastened by hand. To fasten the final planks into place, you must either manually blind nail and/or face-nail through the surface on the final planks. Drill pilot holes at a 45-degree angle to the floor and blind nail using l” finishing nails. Alternatively, drill pilot holes in the face every 6” (try to drill holes in darker portion of the wood) and install with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill with appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler from surface with a clean rag and proper cleaner.
Installation Over Radiant Heat Systems
All Artisan Engineered Floors are warranted for Installation over Radiant Heat system provided the following installation guidelines as well as the After Installation and Seasonal Operation guidelines detailed herein are strictly followed.
Artisan Solid Floors are not warranted for installation over Radiant Heat systems.
Failure to strictly follow these guidelines may void all Artisan Warranties.
- Sub floor must be prepared and tested as detailed under PRE INSTALLATION & JOBSITE CONDITIONS with the following additional requirement: The moisture content for concrete sub floors registered after a calcium chloride test must not be greater than 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet of area. If it exceeds these limits, DO NOT install the flooring.
- Relative humidity of the jobsite must be maintained between 35-55% relative humidity. Use of a humidification system may be required to maintain the proper humidity level. Failure to maintain proper humidity level can result in excessive dryness of flooring.
- It is highly recommended that the radiant heat system be designed specifically to accept a wood floor.
- Use of floor temperature sensor(s) as well as a separate thermostat for each individual room is required.
- An outdoor temperature sensor should be used to adjust water temperature according to anticipated heat loss.
- Prior to installation of flooring the radiant system must be installed per manufacturer’s instructions.
- Radiant heat system should be set to run at 2/3 maximum output for a minimum of 2 weeks prior to installation of flooring to further allow moisture from concrete to dissipate and reach a final moisture content. This must be done in both heating and non-heating seasons.
- Prior to installation (4 days) reduce to a temperature of 65°.
- Install flooring following the instructions for glue-down and nail/staple-down installations as detailed earlier in this document. It is strongly recommended that nail/staple-down installations also be glued.
After Installation & Seasonal Operation
- 48 hours after completion of installation, slowly raise temperature of the heating system to its preferred operating level over a period of 5 days. Do not allow the surface temperature to exceed 80°.
- Humidity level must be maintained between 35%-55% R.H.
- Seasonal gapping should be expected.
- Surface checking can be expected if the proper humidity level is not maintained between 35-55% R. H. or if the floor’s surface temperature exceeds 80°.
The floor’s surface temperature must never be allowed to exceed 80°F. Failure to control the maximum floor temperature may void your Artisan Hardwood Flooring Limited Warranties.
Humidity level must be maintained between 35%-55% R.H. Failure to control the humidity level may void your Artisan Hardwood Flooring Limited Warranties.
Section 3 – Completing the Job – All Installations
- Sweep or vacuum floor.
- Clean the floor with Bona® Swedish Formula® Hardwood Floor Cleaner.
- Install transition pieces -i.e. – thresholds, t-moldings, base boards and quarter round. Nail moldings to wall, not the floor.
- Inspect final floor for nicks and or minor gaps – fill with appropriate color wood putty.
- Leave Warranty and Maintenance brochure with customer.
- Unused material should be left with owner and stored in a dry place in case of future repairs are needed.
- Use plywood or hardboard when moving heavy appliances or furniture across floor.
Floor Protection During Construction
Always protect the surface of the installed flooring during construction by laying a quality rosin paper or other paper that will allow the floor to breathe, taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.
After The Job
Carefully follow all guidelines as detailed under Artisan Flooring Care and Maintenance Instructions, available on our website.
Artisan Hardwood, Inc. also honors the installation guidelines set forth by the NWFA. These are industry standards and are available by calling 1-800-422-4556.